Indian cream cheese

I have survived India for almost a month now, and have been focusing on religion, the lurking underdog and powerhouse of my textiles project, coming forward in full.

Five days in a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in Bir, and 18 in a monastery/school in Bodhgaya

The night bus to Bir was totally scarring, but I found a freezing guesthouse of the Tibetan monastery. I was the only person in the guesthouse, and the only westerner in Bir. When I asked if I could sit in on the prayers, the monks gave me a little rug in the corner, where I sat shivering through the ceremonies. Long hongs blasted and the drum beat faster and faster as the monks chanted. The big doors were open to the mountains, with bright cold air coming in. Somehow all the monks had bare arms and feet — Chai was passed around. The sound of all the instruments together was so loud, so throbbing, my whole body was vibrating just being in that space. I was barely keeping my wits about me in general, especially since I couldn’t have any interaction with the monks.

So I flew down to Bodhgaya, the place where the Buddha attained Enlightenment. I found the Root Institute through a recommendation, and went for the course.

The highlight of the course was going to the Bodhi temple. One day I was there by myself walking around the temple, and saw there were all these empty mats all around it, hundreds of them. I thought this was so odd, and just as I was leaving, literally ONE THOUSAND monks walked past me into the temple. I watched them swarm in around it, filling in every space like a wave of red and orange robes. No pictures were allowed, but it was the most amazing sight I have seen in India. On the last day of the course we went to the temple at sunrise and took our vows, with all the monks doing prostrations all around us.

India feels right in a lot of ways. I feel totally pulled in here. I have spent a few days going to Sikh temples in Delhi. I bought a ticket for Bolivia a while ago, but after this month on religions I want to come back to Asia.

I made great friends in the course, something this weary solo-er needed, but the extremely solitary nature of the Watson still has me in its clutches.
I am losing sight of perspective and trying embrace all the weirdnesses. Always on my own, finding myself in situations so often – like the metro in Delhi – that scare me. Flying to Bolivia from Delhi with no plans.. So much time in airports…It is amazing but also so hard. I always thought I was so old, but now I am realizing I am actually like a five year old when trying to navigate all this. Maybe that’s what India needed to teach me..

And why am I doing all of this again? I don’t know!! It is amazing though

With love,
Annie

 

A snippet of the course:

 

“Enlightenment is neither far nor near,

And neither does it come nor go.

it is whether it is seen or not

Right in the envelope of our afflictions”.